Let's go with the pros first (that I can think of):
1. Good suspension rear & front so far (with a pillion), but if they are made stiffer people can ride it a bit faster & it'll control better.
2. Good gearing, I stay at 2nd but mostly 3rd (with a pillion). When it comes to steep surfaces, gear 1 really doing the job good!
3. The weight is good, manageable especially when I have to lean to the left side and the right side for sometimes.
4. No vibrations on the body kit.
No adjustments on the rear shocks, no pre load no nothing. Luckily the length of the shocks is 350 mm or 35 cm, a very nice height for any riders. A perfect height for offroad or enduro riding too.
I changed the stock bar to a higher aftermarket bar. Handling is better now sitting & standing! Stock handlebar is very heavy plus it's made out of iron (easy to get bent) and also the height of the stock one is lower than the one I'm having right now, simply perfect!
Cons (so far):
1. Gears area holding back especially on 1 & 2 maybe due to setting from factory. (I need to do something about this). Maybe by using or installing ECU with no cut-off will solve the problem.
2. Seat a bit hard but my Honda RS150 is harder. But once we're getting used to it then it should be okay I guess.
If I really wanna do serious offroading with the PG1, here's a list of things that I wanna do:
1. Change the width of the rear rim to 1.85, the stock right now is 2.15 front and rear. Other than that, I'll put a tyre lock especially on the rear rim. 1.85 width is similar to most serious enduro bikes & motocross, it will to me give more openings to the tyre threads that will give more grip not only at the center also to both sides of the tyres.
2. Put 19 inches with 1.6 width for the front wheel, this will definitely give more on the handling especially during high speed.
3. Make the suspensions stiffer both front and rear, the bike will not bounce so much & lost the speed during riding or handling obstacles.
4. Go up 2 teeth on the rear sprockets from 40 so there's no need to change to gear 1 when dealing with steep surfaces. Gear 2 normally has longer breath.
5. Use O ring sprocket chain, more durable & especially not easy to get loosen.
6. Change the tyres to enduro or motocross type instead of the stock dual purpose from IRC.
5. More open exhaust system or muffler. The bike will breath better & give extra power & torque! 28 mm stainless is more than enough! Lighter & easy to maintain!
The gear lever. One not so good thing is the shaft of the gear lever is not very precise during the time when I need to change the gear, sometimes when I thought that I have dropped the gear down but it's not doing it so I have to do it again.
The recommended tyre pressure for rear & front wheels also the right pressure for a single rider & with pillion or passenger. Normally for serious offroad riding I'll put 12- 15 psi both on rear and front for better grip plus handling!
The recommended engine oil density and also the amount of oil without replacing the oil filter and the amount needed if you were to change the oil filter to a new one.
Right now the bike is still under free oil change period so the shop is using this oil, 20W- 50 (a bit thicker I believe) & that's why I feel like the speed is holding back. Once the free engine oil is finished I will use shell R4X (15W- 40) oil like my other bike did.
Been using this oil for years already & so far it's the best, easy starting for bikes (most obvious for me), cleaner engine (proven by many) & more affordable (around RM22 only). Bikes can still run even after 4K with this oil (my experience)!